Weekly Photo Challenge: Hands ~ Kecak Dance in Bali

May 20, 2012 at 9:53 am (Expat Living, Travel)
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Kecak Dance in Bali

The Kecak (Ramayana Monkey Chant) is performed by 100+ bare-chested men with checked cloths tied around their waists. The men line up in concentric circles around a fire as they sway, throw their arms up, wave their hands, lay prone and even create the illusion of a giant snake as the story progresses. This performance does not use any music except for the cacophony of synchronized chanting, “Ke, cak, cak, cak”. The backdrop of the dance we saw was an ancient temple and the central fire was the only lighting for the stage. As the story unfolds the rhythmic chanting sets a trance-like atmosphere as the audience sits transfixed watching the swaying of hands in the firelight. Pure Magic!

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Temples in Southeast Asia

April 6, 2012 at 8:21 am (Expat Living, Holidays, Kuala Lumpur, Travel, Uncategorized)
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Travelling in South East Asia has many advantages such as the gorgeous weather, friendly locals, the exotic cultures, unique flora and fauna, affordability, and the fabulous food. The one thing that is a constant reminder of how far away I am from my home culture is the history of the temples throughout the region. Here are a few of my favorite temples displaying the rich history of the past and the modern culture of Southeast Asia today.

CAMBODIA~  Angkor Wat is one of the most impressive sites I have witnessed in the world. The temples within the archaeological park were built in the 12th century by King Suryavarman II and dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The biggest temple, Angkor Wat, is massive and breathtaking especially at sunrise.

Angkor Wat

A few miles to the north are the Temples of Angkor Thom and the Bayon built by Jayayarman VII. The highlight of this temple complex is the four faced Buddha statues that rise above the jungles that once covered them. A warm feeling of peace washed over me as I gazed up to the heads that face each direction on the compass point.

Faces of Bayon

One of the favored Angkor temples is Ta Prohm because it has been left almost as it was when it was rediscovered; merged with the jungle!

Temple VS Jungle at Ta Prohm

BALI~ Temples sit on every corner in Bali. Each and every one holds something special from the welcoming smiles at the doors to the serene statues inside.

One of the many temples in Ubud, Bali

Perhaps the most amazing thing about the temples in Bali is the traditional dances held nightly. Here was my favorite, the Kecak and Fire dance.

Kecak Fire Dance in Ubud, Bali

The trip down to see Tanah Lot surrounded by the sea was well worth the drive.

Tanah Lot Temple, Bali

THAILAND~ The mighty temples in Thailand assault your vision when compared to the natural brown and gray stone temples in Bali and Cambodia. Vivid blues, blood reds, lush greens and bold oranges mix with the blinding gold stupas and pagodas to create a visual feast.

Golden Buddhas

Guardian at Wat Arun

The Grand Palace is crammed with so many temple buildings that blend together in the smoldering heat of the day. Dazzling statues like the Emerald Buddha are housed here in the many gleaming temples.

Grand Palace, Thailand

Thailand-Grand Palace

Wat Arun is a stupa-like pagoda that is encrusted with broken pieces of porcelain and seashells. The views from the top offer a fabulous sight of the Grand Palace across the river. The monastery is known as the temple of Dawn and is one of the best known landmarks in Bangkok.

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn

LAOS~ Like Thailand, the temples in Laos are glittery gold and an overabundance of colors. The most impressive temple in Vientiane is the Pha That Luang with its blinding gold stupa  rising up into the sky. The often photographed temple graces the bills in Laos and one can see why as the temple is one of the most impressive sites in SE Asia. The tranquil scene inside the temple grounds is a welcome contradiction to the hustle and bustle of the busy city.

Pha That Luang, Vientiane, Laos

Pha That Luang, Vientiane, Laos

A trip north to Luang Prabang sets a totally different mood. Monks donned in saffron-colored robes peacefully walk the streets and sit in quiet reflection at the temples. Visitors are welcomed and encouraged to poke around the temple grounds and enjoy the gorgeous sites.

Buddhist temple at Royal Palace

Even the caves in Luang Prabang are temples which hold worship treasures. A leisurely trip up the Mekong to the Pak Ou Cave reveals hundreds of Buddha statues inside. A stop at a local whiskey village finishes the day trip with a  smile. Here some of the statues sit in the dark cave overlooking the meandering river and rolling hills.

Pak OU Caves

VIETNAM~ The Temple of Literature is an ancient Confucian sanctuary in the heart of Hanoi. It is a peaceful respite from the noise and traffic of the city. Built in 1070, this temple complex has five beautiful courtyards to wander through. This ancient temple is featured on the 100,000 dong note.

A huge drum at the Temple of Literature, Hanoi, Vietnam

The city of Hanoi circles around Hoan Kiem Lake, the site of a famed Vietnamese legend of a magical sword used to defeat the Mongols. The Tortoise Pagoda sits in the heart of Hoan Kiem Lake honoring the turtle that took the sword back to the bottom of the lake after the battle.

The Tortoise Pagoda at Hoan Kiem Lake

At the Northeast section of the lake you stroll over the arched red Huc Bridge crossing to the Temple of the Jade Mountain (Ngoc Son Temple). Weeping Willow trees sweep the surface of the lake as flags flutter in the warm breezes coming off the lake.

Crossing Huc Bridge over Hoan Kiem Lake

Temple of the Jade Mountain~ Ngoc Son Temple

MALAYSIA~  Staying true to the advertising slogan, Malaysia-Truly Asia, the temples in this country are from many different Asian religions. Hindu, Muslim, Buddhist and Christian temples can all be found on the same city block.

The Christ Church in Malacca was built in 1714 by the Dutch to celebrate the take over of Malacca from the Portuguese Empire. The church was originally painted white, but in 1911 the distinctive reddish color has dominated the landscape of Malacca.

Christ Church, Malacca, Malaysia

140 foot Lord Murugan at the Batu Caves, Malaysia

The Batu Caves just north of Kuala Lumpur house one of the most important Hindu shrines outside of India. A statue of Lord Murugan glitters in the sun at 140 feet tall as he stands at the side of the 272 steps into the sacred caves. This temple is the final spot for the Thaipusam Festival (see earlier post).  The lower caves have two more temples filled with colorful Hindu statues and paintings.

Buddhist temples can be found all over Malaysia. Thean Hou Temple is nestled high on a hill above the busy city and Highways below. This six-tiered temple has exquisite roof lines adorned with peacocks and dragons. Hundreds of red lanterns float high above the courtyards.

Lanterns at Thean Hou Temple, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Kek Lok Si is the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia. Located in Penang, Malaysia it is rightly named the Temple of Supreme Bliss!  Pictured below is the seven storied Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas.  A hundred foot bronze statue of Kuan Yin See stands over the temple complex of Kek Lok Se.

Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas

Masjid Wilayah Persekutuan

The architecture of the mosques in Malaysia is breathtaking.  This beautiful aqua mosque is near Jalan Duta in Kuala Lumpur. It stands majestically on top of a hill where the minarets call out to prayer five times a day. Below is the beautiful pink mosque in Putrajaya that looks as though it is floating on the lake.

Masjid Putra

Next on my list of must see temples are the Swedogan Temple in  Burma/Myanmar and Borobudur in Java, Indonesia. What are your favorite SE Asian temples?  Let me know as I have one more year to feast my eyes on the temples in this part of the world!

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Thaipusam

February 7, 2008 at 11:47 am (Expat Living, Holidays, Kuala Lumpur, miscellaneous, Travel)
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080122084524.jpg   The large statue next to the 272 steps leading up to the Batu Caves.

Thaipusam, a Hindu festival to honor devotion to the Hindu deity, Lord Murugan, was celebrated in Malaysia on January 23 this year.  Devotees ask the deity for a favor, offer atonement or give thanks for a granted prayer.  The worshippers prepare for Thaipusam through fasting and prayer in the 40 days leading up to the festival.  On the day of the festival, devotees shave their heads and make a pilgrimage to the Batu Caves which is 15 km outside of Kuala Lumpur. The Batu Caves house a temple which is dedicated to Lord Murugan.  Devotees will climb the 272 steps to reach the temple and place their “kavadi” or burden at the feet of the deity’s statue.  

 

 

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Once pilgrims reach the site of the caves, they will show their devotion in different ways.  Many will bear a kavadi which could be a simple pot of milk carried on their heads.  The kavadis vary in size and weight.  Smaller versions consist of a small temple with a rod that is carried on the shoulders.  Many devotees pierce their tongues, cheeks or foreheads with small spears. The largest kavadis can be up to 2 meters (6 feet) high which are held on their heads and then attached to the body with 108 hooks piercing the skin!  Some devotees walk on fire, practice flagellation and pull a kavadi cart attached by hooks in his back. 

 

Needless to say this is not a festival for those with a weak stomach.  After living in Kuala Lumpur for three and a half years, I decided that it was time to go and witness this festival first hand.  My husband, children and I set off with our good friend and local guide, Lucas, and fourteen other teachers.  I was leery and expecting chaos, strange rituals, horrific masochistic feats and lots of blood. 

 

What I found was a spiritual air where families frolicked in the river, vendors sold their wares, and children shrieked with laughter. Most people were dressed in yellow sari-type robes with shaved heads.  As we walked through the grounds, barbers in tents shouted out to us to get our heads shaved, people smiled at us or giggled as we hurriedly snapped pictures so as not to offend.  However as the evening progressed, we realized that nobody was bothered by our presence or our picture snapping, they were proud of their sacrifice and burdens! 

 

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It was a happy and spiritual atmosphere as family members gathered around their loved ones to organize for the final pilgrimage up the steps in the blistering tropical heat of the evening.  Lucas led us through the crowds down to the river in the foothills of the caves where families participated in ritual bathing.  We saw men, women and children carrying milk pots and smaller kavadis toward the steps.  Then we sighted the huge kavadis and meandered down to where the devotees were getting ready.   

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The men who were readying to carry the enormous kavadis were surrounded by family and friends.  We watched with open amazement as one devotee who was shaved, bathed and in a deep trance began to don his kavadi.  Singers and drummers in colorful costumes beat their drums and belted out trance inducing songs to keep the devotee focused.  His eyes were rolled back into his head at some points but otherwise staring straight ahead with a look of total determination and love.  It was a powerful ritual to witness.  Men chanted and blew the smoke of incense into his face as the 6-foot kavadi was placed on his head.  More chanting, incense, drumming and words of encouragement were made as the 108 hooks pierced through the flesh on his chest and back.   

 

The devotee wobbled on his stool under the strain of the heavy temple, but never once did the man cry out or flinch in pain!  Not an ounce of blood was spilled as the hooks were inserted and then the spears were poked lovingly through his cheeks and tongue.  The drummers took up a more fevered beat and the man rose and began a jovial dance.  He jumped up and down as the enormous statue on his head bobbed and wavered.  The hooks strained against his body, but a look of spiritual bliss was all that was visible on his face as he communicated with his god.  He began to slowly dodge his way through the crowd toward his final destination, the statue of Lord Murugan in the caves at the top of the 272 steps!  His coaches, family members, the band and tourists followed his elated progress through the crowds to cheers of delight.   

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We observed many more men carrying elaborate and enormous kavadis.  Couples who had babies carried their beloved bundle slung in a yellow cloth hung on a pole shouldered between the blessed parents.  Young children skipped alongside their parents carrying pots of milk or honey on top of their proud shaven heads.  One man sat in an enormous chair of spiked nails and alternately slammed himself into the chair and gave blessings to other devotees as they passed him. People had fruits hanging from their flesh by hooks and others carried burning oil in clay pots!  

 

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It was an amazing night that filled me with wonder, bewilderment, awe and memories that will last a lifetime.  If you are ever in KL in January/February, this is a festival and experience not to be missed!  Thaipusam is a Tamil tradition observed mostly in Southern India, but festivals can be observed in Singapore, Malaysia and Mauritius.  Have you ever witnessed Thaipusam?  Share your experiences with me. 

 

As I sit here writing this I hear the first crackles and booms of firecrackers and the beating of drums and cymbals.  It is the first day of Chinese New Year and a neighbor is having a lion dance!  I must go now and hear the rhythmic drums of another culture beat their way into memories in my mind.  It is another exciting holiday season in Malaysia! 

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